Coloured glass can mark an island or eating area, but food preparation still needs clear, neutral task lighting.
Start with the problem, not the product photograph
Rooms are used from several positions and at different times. For Tiffany lighting above a kitchen island or dining area, judge daylight, evening scenes, movement and tasks separately.
Photograph the proposed position straight on and from the side. Record the full dimensions, lampholder, bulb, connection method and the main task. A close product image rarely shows room scale, door movement or the angle from which a bare bulb becomes visible.
Three distinct decisions
1. Decide the job before the style
Let the Tiffany fitting define the social zone without allowing it to replace safe, even illumination over bench and hob.
Keep this evidence: write the main task and the one constraint that could rule the fitting out.
2. Measure the real fitting envelope
Measure worktop length, pendant spread, spacing, steam or grease exposure and any line that crosses cupboard doors.
Keep this evidence: record every dimension from one named reference point and photograph the tape measure in place.
3. Test the result from normal positions
Prepare food and set the table under normal evening conditions; inspect hand shadows and whether glass colour distorts ingredients.
Keep this evidence: repeat the check by day and after dark, using the bulb and furniture layout you expect to keep.
Worked calculation
Equal pendant spacing
G = (L − nD) ÷ (n + 1)
Variables: G is each equal gap, L is usable island length, n is pendant count and D is pendant diameter.
Example: For L = 2100 mm, n = 3 and D = 300 mm: G = (2100 − 900) ÷ 4 = 300 mm. Check whether edge gaps and work light are suitable.
The calculation gives a planning check, not an installation approval. Confirm the maker’s dimensions, use a full-size mock-up and let the appropriately qualified person decide structural and fixed-wiring details.
A real TiffanyLight.co.nz product as the worked case

20 cm Tiffany-style stained-glass wall light
A shallow wall fitting used to check projection, side glare, door movement and stair or hallway sightlines.
This model demonstrates the method; it is not an automatic recommendation. Draw its complete dimensions, verify the current electrical specification and test the proposed light in the real room. Product details can change, so check the live page before buying.
Confirm on the product page: total dimensions, weight, voltage and connection, lampholder, maximum wattage, included parts and installation conditions.
Practical New Zealand home scenario
Use the room on an ordinary evening. Perform the article’s actual task, then note dark surfaces, reflections and any view of a bare bulb. Let 20 cm Tiffany-style stained-glass wall light provide colour and character, but add neutral task or ambient light wherever the working surface remains unclear.
Common mistakes
- Expecting one decorative lamp to solve every lighting task.
- Testing only while standing when glare occurs seated or lying down.
- Ignoring dark circulation routes after sunset.
Final checklist
- Every activity has appropriate light.
- Dark evening zones are mapped.
- No disruptive reflections remain.
- Controls are easy to reach.
- Decorative and functional light are balanced.
Record sheet: model, complete dimensions, total weight, voltage and connection, lampholder, chosen LED, position, mock-up photograph and check date. The current product information and maker’s instructions take priority over general guidance.